For ceilings, try a special ultra flat plastic known as ceiling white that helps mask imperfections. But choose one that doesn't drip. A tint can be added which matches your overall colour scheme, but remember to record the mix on the can should you need to re-order at any time.Generally, solvent based enamel paint is the toughest, giving the hard-wearing surface you want for areas that need constant cleaning, such as doors, windows and furniture. Or walls subjected to frequent dampness. Kitchens, bathrooms and laundries may be worth the extra time it takes to apply enamel. Step 2: how much paint? For flat areas like ceilings, walls and doors, just multiply their length by their height, subtracting such areas as windows. This gives you the area your paint will have to cover. When painting the frames of windows and glass doors, multiply their width by their height and divide by five.
Once you've worked out the total area to be covered, allow one litre for each 16 square metres for one coat.Add an extra 20% to this for rough or porous surfaces.
Step 3: collect all your tools
Your job will be easier by assembling all the tools and materials you need from the start. There is nothing more aggravating than not having the right whatsit when you need it and having to make a sudden dash to your local Mitre 10. Choose brushes with no gaps in the bristles and a springy feel to them. A sparse brush will have you dipping into the paint more often, feel limp and hard to control, and leave a streaky finish. Rollers depend on the surface you're painting as well as the paint you're using. Use a short nap (6-7mm) for smooth surfaces and higher gloss paints ... a medium nap (8-12mm) for moderately uneven surfaces and lower gloss paints ... and a long nap (20mm or greater) for rough surfaces. Make sure you select one with a threaded handle to allow you to fit an extension to take the backache out of reaching ceilings and high walls. | 
